It often seems time has stood still in Cuba. The old-timers, the horse carriages, the dilapidated colonial buildings, the bare shop windows, the long lines of people waiting, the peeling bill-boards with revolutionary slogans. But it's a country in transition. Whole streets are being renovated, everyone seems to have a smartphone, ATM's are appearing, many youngsters dress trendy, small enterprises are sprouting. And there is music everywhere.