In the Galapagos archepilago (yes, Darwin and the theory of evolution) one can come eye in eye with wild animals and birds who look you over indiffently or, at the most, curiously. They have no enemies here, man hasn't been a predator for them for many years. Giant tortoises cross the road - and have right of way. Marine Iguana waddle past on the boardwalk in town, sea lions lie sunbating on the decks of fishing boats. Pelicans and sea lions jostle around the fishmonger in the market for a piece of fish, or just take it. Animals are boss here. Or so is said. But here too man induced climate change is taking its toll.