The start of the journey, from Cape Horn over the unusually calm Drake Passage to Half Moon island, Antarctica. Make acquaintance with the comical chinstrap penguins. Their appearance makes one forget how tough a penguin's life here is. The magnificant landscape can't hide the fact that nature is rugged and inhospitable in this part of the world. The trip from the rookery to the sea to find food, and back to the partner and one, or two, chicks, through the snow and over rocks and ice is really arduous for penguins, built as they are for swimming. Fur seals, too, are more at home in the water. On the way to Damoy Point  the first whales, humpbacks, right next to and under the ship.