On the way to Damoy Point and Port Lockroy, the first icebergs, fantastic formations with amazing colours, some of them huge, enormous glaciers and glacier walls, some over a hundred meters, falling straight into the sea. Looking at Port Lockroy, previously a Britisch scientific base, now only a museum and the world's most southerly post-office, sandwiched between the sea and ice and towering mountains, makes one realise how puny humankind really is. This is gentoo penguin territory. It's molting time, and time the chicks start to learn fending for themselves.